Medlock Canteen - Launch

Deansgate Square has been an absolute hive of hospitality activity since it opened, with a score of operators opening their doors to create a lovely little community feel to the area, almost as if you’re in a mini ‘burb. 

Anyway, amidst the current offerings there was always a window for somebody to provide a truly all-day experience, to cater for those who want a quality brunch, tasty lunch, or indeed a night-time drinking and eating destination.   So when Medlock Canteen was announced, it seemed as if that gap would be filled.

If you don’t know, then the team behind Medlock Canteen are the same people who brought you Belzan and Madre, which are always favourite spots.  So in short, the team behind Medlock Canteen know what they are doing and you’re in safe hands.

Sadly, we couldn’t make the official launch day so were super grateful to be squeezed in during a busy service a couple of days later.  The team headed down to get our hands on things.

On arrival the unit itself is a stunner.  Stripped back ceilings, with a canteen feel, nodding towards a 1970’s diner.  A large open kitchen to the side, with stools facing it for those who enjoy watching their food be prepped, and in our case some comfy benches to the other side, with plenty of tables in the middle.  It was a hugely comfy place to spend a couple of hours. 

Sourdough and Cauli Butter (£6) was the obligatory kick off.  Lovely sourdough paired with a novel twist on the usual compound butters, and one which I’ve never had before but the whole table enjoyed.

House Pickles (£4) were a simple affair.  Roughly chopped root veggies, lightly pickled.  Some of them looked a bit bruised but delivered a fresh and crunch start to our dinner. 

Croquettes (£3 each) were a textural delight; crispy on the exterior, gooey within, topped with Alpine Cheddar and sat on a truffle laced sauce.  Super delicious.

Rotisserie Chicken (£14) is a house speciality, available in half a bird, or a full one.  We went for half due to trying most of menu!  Juicy, tasty, satisfying, with a lovely gravy, stacked up to create a total crowd pleaser.  100% a must order dish. 

Grilled Bone in Sirloin (£45) was a sturdy looking plate of goodness.  Cooked to a crimson perfection and bathed in a lovely rich and shiny pan jus.  The quality of the beef spoke for itself here.

Turkey Schnitzel (£18) pacified our current obsession with all things schitzeled.  Well fried turkey in a lovely crispy crumb.  It could have been beaten out more to make it a bit thinner, but the deliciousness could not be questioned.  A generous dab of salsa verde and a runny fried egg completed the plate perfectly. 

Fries (£6.5), as simple as they intrinsically are, were divine.  Perfectly crispy and so well-seasoned throughout. Sometimes the simple things are the best and it helped that they went perfectly with all 3 main courses.

50/50 Mash (£6.5), which for those who don’t know, is 50% potato, and 50% butter, so one for those treat-yourself occasions.  Or as they call it in France, the kind of mash that you eat every day as that’s the only legit  way to make it.  This was a bit overworked though, hence slightly gloopy and starchy, despite all that lovely butter.  The only real miss of the whole meal. 

We felt the need to order some of the healthier options as sides, so worked our way through the Peas and Leeks (£6.5), which were super tasty and presented in line with a much pricier venue.  Bitter Leaf Salad (£6.5) and Butterhead Salad (£6.5) both brought some freshness, with the dressing on the latter being outstanding.

The drinks offering also warrants a mention. A solid cocktail list, quality coffees, and accessible yet quality wine options, split into 3 sections: Decent, Better and Best. The first two sections showcase boxed wine, which screams value and sustainability, plus all were sourced from France for minimal airmiles/carbon effect. We gladly sampled 500ml each of the Ugni Blanc (£18), and the Claret (£23).

In addition to the above, there’s a cheeky little separate wine carte headlined as ‘Cellar Wines’, containing some elite drops such as the mighty Alsatian that is Trimbach VV, should you be feeling a bit more spenny than us on the evening.

With the savouries behind us, pastry standards were exceptional, far exceeding what we expected ahead of arrival.  Simple, familiar and basic on the face of things, but far from it in truth.  The people running the pastry section at MC are clearly super talented, which is fortunate since we ordered 4 puddings!

Chocolate Cremeux (£8) was simple yet effective.  Rich, packed with flavour, and a serious chocolate fix.  Perhaps some texture on the plate could have lifted the dish, but half of the team disagreed with that point though, so you be the judge and try it for yourself.

Earl Grey Mille Feuille (£8) was technically, the most accomplished of the selection.  Layers of well executed puff pastry, with lovely creamy filling, elevated with those savoury Early Grey notes.  A dish which punches well above it’s weight.

Rhubarb Pie and Custard (£8) will please anyone who’s a fan of a Maccie’s apple pie.  The same crunchy exterior, with a flavoursome, perhaps overly hot filling; akin to the apparent inspiration of this dish.  A touch of retro, and another winning dish.

Pear and Elderflower Trifle (£12), which was apparantely a sharer dish, was the undisputed champion of the four puds, and our entire group agreed on that.  Caramel chocolate shards acted as garnish, on top of whipped cream, pear, sponge, custard, and an exceptional elderflower jelly which again, could grace the menu in a much more costly establishment.  Outstanding.

We settled up what we owed via an incredibly personable gent, and then all four of us rolled back to the car feeling truly satisfied after having had a great evening, at a venue which isn’t only unique in the locality of Deansgate Square, but in the general city centre.  I can’t think of too many places in town which offer such a varied, high quality, all day drinking and offering product, with such individual personality.   So whilst it may be just on the edge of the immediate city centre’s burbs, Medlock Canteen is 100% one to add to your places to visit when in the city centre.

** The food on this visit was all gratefully comped **