 |
| |
|
 |
 |
Value  |
 |
The entire bill was pretty much bang on £700, with £460 being paid on the night and £240 settled ahead of arrival. For that we received 2 full sized tasting menus, 2 welcome cocktails, 2 wine flights, plus the included water and now-antiquated 12.5% service charge. It's all pretty much standard in 2025 for a One Star.
There’s now 3 wine pairing options and the base one screamed superb value at just £80, yet was easily worth £10 more.
|
 |
But, from the trio of wine pairings, the upper level one despite its excellence, didn’t quite reflect the same value at £180 as its underpriced £80 sibling. The £140 pairing at Mana just a week earlier, was on the same level in terms of standard and RRP, and was more interesting in rarity.
A £120 per person booking deposit is demanded, and not a card block either, an actual pre-payment. That’s the entire cost of the lower priced menu, so in essence its akin to paying up front, months in advance. It’s not something I’m ever a fan of, as much as I understand why it happens.
|
| |
 |
 |
Food & Drink  |
|
Any Umbel Group experience has for years sported some of the best snacks in the game. It’s the section of your dining experience which sets the tone for everything which follows, and you can often obtain a whole snapshot of a venue based purely on their snacks. Dexter Beef Bavette started said snacks and it’s a singular bite which I’ve come to love. Paper thin croustade casing filled with chopped and precisely seasoned beef, now topped with a nest of surgically prepped radish and the usual edible petals. Always a huge flavour hit.
Elsewhere on the snacks saw the continued presence of the Spenwood Cheese Biscuit, and also the Cured Mackerel. But a nice little new addition was some Spiced Chalkstream Trout; a super simple affair. A handsome tranche of spiced fish dressed with plum condiment. No garnish, no saucing. Just uber produce-focused, and outstanding produce at that.
|
| |
 |
 |
Glazed Lobster has always been a personal favourite from Skof’s snacks, and this was the best that the dish has ever been. The flavour has never been in doubt, but the lobster itself is now cut until 3 pieces, not 2 as it was in the fledgling days. It just eats better this way, hence it’s enjoyed even more. And that brought the end to the snacks.
Orkney Scallop was sauced in a splendid tomato water, carrying daisy like freshness and splendidly measured acid balance. The fried oyster sidekick had somehow retained its texture despite its brief bathe. Superb.
|
| |
 |
 |
Next over the pass was Skof’s Set Miso Custard. The garnish has improved, now being more dainty and hence refined in appearance, but below that veneer sat a familiar umami bomb. Hen of the woods and truffle headlined, to deliver a deeply satisfying spoonful. Whispers from surrounding tables agreed.
Confit Chicken Wing was another welcome new addition to the carte, served at the Chef’s Table, as one of your courses always will be. It was great to see the elevation of such a basic protein, which is usually shied away from by pricier venues in favour of similarly spenny produce. I get why, but in terms of pure flavour delivery it’s not always about the expensive bedrock, but rather the skill and effort in prep to extract the best out of the seemingly humble.
|
| |
 |
 |
Roasted Herdwick Lamb Broth was a nod to Skof’s Cumbrian heartland. An uber dark liquor, concealing the goodies which sat below the surface; an array of chopped veggies and cubes of lamb. Rich, comforting and a huge flavour hit.
Onto the full throttle main courses; Steamed West Coast Cod is a staple course which I’ve eaten at numerous Umbel dining rooms over the years, but as previously stated, Skof’s variation is my favourite. The real star of the dish for me is that smoked eel, which lifts both the cod and its sauce beyond both of their solo components. It’s just a marvellous dish.
Roasted Sladesdown Duck is another offering that we now know very well. On our first visit it resonated with EMP vibes; picture perfect and confidently/minimally sauced, with little else on the plate. The course still comes with a mini loaf that’s now topped with dehydrated flowers.
|
| |
 |
 |
And just like that, the salt-based courses are gone and the transition to sugar starts with the perfectly balanced Amasake Sorbet. Super smooth, amazingly creamy with those sweet sake notes, singing loudly. Delicious.
Compressed Malwina Strawberries is a dish which features a rotation of fruit, I assume depending upon what’s at its peak up on the farm near Cartmel. It’s a pleasing dish which carries crumble-like similarities, and is just immensely comforting.
Manchester Honey Ice Cream looks set to become Skof’s resident pudding, which is fine by me. It has that uber local Mcr tie in, it looks stunning, and features its wave upon wave of varying textures, temperatures and contrasting flavours. It’s just a very smart pud.
|
| |
 |
 |
Milk from Greenoaks Farm was a playful bite, served by Chef Tom himself. A couple of cute cones topped with splendid quality, super light ice cream. A nice little bite to add a bit extra to the already generous sweet course roster.
We ended with, as ever, Barney's Tiramisu. This was served by Sean who gladly repeated the story behind this dish for us. We appreciated the story as much as the first time we'd heard it, before enjoying the city's most elite tiramisu. It's just a lovely homage, being a super fun way to sign off and is already as expected and similarly pitched Adam Reid's tipsy take, on the other side of town.
|
| |
 |
 |
|
But; the beef tartare croustade was dominated by its new radish garnish, which formerly topped the mackerel. Sadly, it muted the beef a tad. The mackerel snack now sans radish was once again screaming out for texture. And the cheese biscuits were unevenly baked so notably differed in colour from each other.
The duck main course still isn’t flying as high as it did on Skof’s launch in terms of either presentation or saucing. And the accompanying bread also fell short of what it was 14 months ago, carrying a different texture and lacking stuffing too. I've left all 3 reviews live for at least a visual comparison of this, and the menu in general.
And dessert wise; it’s all very milk based. Plus the ice cream cones were very uneven in cook/colour. As with the cheese biscuits, send out pairs which match. Small details matter.
|
| |
 |
 |
Overall  |
There’s no question that this is a polished operation doing things to a solid standard, which you expect from the world class Umbel Group who run things. And you can see said group’s immaculate sheen throughout. Even Skof’s email footer now proudly declares its Umbel affiliation; a quiet shift from the early narrative of indie detachment.
Yet after 3 full dinner service visits in 14 months, along with familiarity and clear influence from the wider group comes the creeping question; are some dishes starting to verge on the over-familiar? Certain plates however brilliant become predictable and routine. Sure, there’s offerings on any top venue’s menu that are untouchable as they define that venue, but these tend to be peripheral courses. But for me, the more meaty courses should be largely on rotation every 6 months at most.
|
| |
 |
 |
The most exciting culinary energy often resides in One and Two Star kitchens; those restless, inventive sandpits where ambition is still raw, nimble, and hungry. Skof should live in that space. But as restaurants ascend, spontaneity tends to fade. Take L’Enclume; still arguably the UK’s most complete dining experience. Even there, what I call the “Three Star curse” looms.
Their main dessert; delicious, yes, has been repurposed across their global portfolio for years. For those who’ve followed the journey, the dish has grown creatively stale. But that’s the Three Star playbook. Defend, not disrupt; protect, not provoke. You preserve the GOATed classics that built your legend, lest you disappoint the once-in-a-lifetime diner who booked because of those dishes and Stars. I get it. I really do. |
| |
 |
 |
But despite Skof’s 3 Star mothership, as 2 years of operation looms I’d like them to avoid following that templated path, especially since L’Enclume itself is only an hour and a half away. They now need to press for Two-Star territory, not just in polish but also creativity. And let’s be honest; 2 Stars had to be Skof's ambition from day one, in line with other Umbel venues. Some dishes absolutely earn their perennial spot, but come Spring 2026 if most of the menu still looks broadly the same as now, what message would that transmit?
Skof is brilliant. But brilliance can breed complacency when bookings vanish in seconds and the money flows regardless. So just as its first Star was inevitable, let’s ensure the menu doesn’t become just as predictable. After fifteen months of finding its rhythm, it’s time to push again. Risk more. Surprise more. Cook braver. The reservation book will take care of itself. |
|
| |
 |
 |
Decor & Ambience  |
|
As reported in our previous write up, which was a press preview and hence not a proper critique; it's a smart, tidy, modernly kitted out informal feeling space, with nods to its former industrial usage, in keeping with Manchester’s broader history. It's a really nice space and clearly nothing has changed from 3 months ago so I won't labour this section.
Also, the music was at a much better volume this time around. Im a fan of subtle music in even high end dining rooms, and it's far from being a new thing. Adam Reid has done it on the other side of town for many years now. But, the volume at Skof on our last visit was around 85db at times, driven by customers talking at a level to combat said music and other customers doing the same, in a vicious cycle of excessive noise. This time the music was lower, hence so were the customers. Much better.
|
|
Not much really. It's a lovely spot
|
| |
 |
 |
Food & Drink |
|
The menu is in essence largely the same as on launch, which is in no way a bad thing. But large parts of it now sport micro tweaks. I'd expect to be able to say the same again if we went back in another few months as that's how operating at this calibre should be. Constantly evolving. Pushing in the never-ending pursuit of improvement and refinement. Nothing is ever totally complete as much as the core remains. I won't spiel about each course due to the relatively recent previous visit, but here's the headline points.
Onto the snacks; first over the pass was again the beef tartare croustade. Now at the risk of peaking really early and as much as it's a 'mere' snack, this dish will be a strong contender for the best thing which we've consumed in Manchester all year in terms of a pure flavour hit. An impossibly thin casing with wave upon wave of balanced flavours. A masterpiece in technique and taste layering. The protein on the lobster snack is now sliced thinner, allowing you to eat it more cleanly in two bites, rather than dragging away all the lobster in bite number one. And the mackerel snack's radish garnish is now super-fine julienned to again improve smoothness of eating and general refinement.
|
| |
 |
 |
Another headline course is the broth of grilled onions, poured at tableside and bejewelled with King Edward potato balls and courgette, scented with copious aromats. It was a lesson in extracting as much flavour as possible from a seemingly humble ingredient. Rich, deep and comforting in any season. Icing on the cake was delivered using a stunning laminated/rolled brioche style mini loaf, served with a splendid butter and herb oil. Easily some of the best bread we've had all year in any restaurant on any continent.
The cod dish was still exemplary, and as a full course was probably the table's overall favourite. Simplistic and stripped back in appearance, revealing hidden depths once explored. The cod was sat atop onions and smoked eel which brought the whole dish alive, belaying that initial perception of simplicity. It's a dish which I've seen an iteration of in a couple of Umbel dining rooms in the last 12 months, both 2 and 3 star adorned ones. But hand on heart, this version was the most enjoyable of the 3. High praise.
|
| |
 |
 |
The main course duck now came adorned with a sniff of greenery to break up the brown/beige colour profile. As you'd expect, the duck itself was perfectly cooked, pressed on a plancha to get that skin really crispy whilst retaining the internal pinkness. Fabulous quality bird too. Another individual bread bun accompanied this course, which we suspect was made with different flour this time around, still stuffed with shredded duck leg, to make the most of those whole birds rather than just the Rolls Royce breast meat.
Amasake Sorbet acted as the transition course, and was splendid, as much as it isn't really pitched as a proper course. Ultra smooth with not an ice crystal in sight, loaded with flavour. Simple yet stunning.
|
| |
 |
 |
Manchester Honey Ice Cream was a joy, and the star of what was a stellar pudding series. A rocher of top-tier honey ice cream, paired up with chamomile sponge and aerated milk, plus some herbs since this is an Umbel dish after all. A taste and textural orchestra.
Barney's Tiramisu ended our experience, and its accompanying story is touching. But I'll let you hear it from Tom in person when you book in, which if you've read this far then surely you will! The bowl was gratefully left on our table, not because Tom likely knew that this piece was coming, but because there was just a nice amount for us to finish off and he's a very nice lad. We still felt like champions.
|
| |
 |
 |
|
The mackerel snack perhaps needs a pop of texture adding to it somewhere, as every element is very soft. The kohlrabi half-moon was a smidge toothsome and felt underdone as a result, especially when comparing our two visits.
The duck main course wasn’t quite as accomplished as it was on our first visit, namely via the sauce which it came dressed with. It was still excellent, but just lacked the textural punch and richness of its previous iteration.
The stuffed bread bun or the Manchester Bao as we now affectionately call it was also slightly behind the last one which we had too, and we preferred the dough before.
That’s about it.
|
| |
 |
 |
Service |
|
Front of house nerves have settled down somewhat since launch, as you'd expect on this level. Service was now measured, calm and confident. Every wine is poured just before the accompanying course is presented, like clockwork. A lot of effort, probably too much, was put into the pre-launch media work to assure potential customers that Skof is as informal and free from pomp as a £300 a head meal possibly can be. Service reflects this and you don’t need to worry about feeling as if you're sat in a stuffy Parisian 3 star.
Service is perfectly pitched for the market in terms of friendliness and demeanour. Observing tables around us, as is only professional, it was clear that in terms of being interactive the staff were giving what the customer resonated. If you want to keep it to the point and not interact all that much, then they return that vibe. If like us you prefer some mild banter and a chat, then that was also being duly obliged. Having that kind of service barometer and gauging a customer's personality, from course one, is so important. Pristine.
|
|
For me, anywhere on this level needs to be providing a stool or hook for our handbags. It's common practice these days, and for me is 100% essential. Skof need to make it happen too. And I'm fully aware of how much of a diva that makes me sound by the way.
|
| |
 |
 |
Overall |
|
Getting straight to it; I'm braced for the inevitable local keyboard Michelin inspectors chirping re. how Skof will 100% get a Star in Q1 2025. It happens every time somewhere decent launches in Manchester, and usually leads to self-inflicted let downs. Such nonsense is usually written by people who seldom go to this kind of place unless it's either for a special occasion, or dare I say it, when somebody else is paying the bill.
But Skof's case is different from the usual self-promoting praise and misguided forecasts. Firstly, it’s run by one of the top lieutenants of arguably the best Chef in the UK, whose Umbel Group facilitated Skof’s inception and holds a score and stars in the UK and abroad. Michelin love that kind of lineage. Secondly; there’s no politics involved regarding the dining room's owner or location as it’s in a standalone property, not housed within a chain hotel etc. And finally; it's genuinely on the Starred level and that's what matters in a world where getting a Star is now broadly too easy for those located in certain postcodes. Both the culinary and now service standards are very much in place at Skof, along with suitable local tie-ins and strong regional produce usage. So yeah, I’d be seriously surprised if Michelin don’t see fit to adorn Skof with the big one next year. But then again, who knows. You just never do, and secretly, people love it that way
Now reading this review back to myself, I've praised a couple of things as the best that I've had all year etc. But I won't edit myself to death here as the praise is real, and it's fully justified.
|
| |
 |
 |
|
There’s only been one blip on the entire launch of Skof for me. Over the years Manchester’s resistance towards anything even remotely formal held us back in getting a Star, 100%. It took a general easing of industry formality in the UK for our own city's preferences to match the status quo. I have a colleague at an esteemed global publication who casually reviews the world’s top 3 Stars whilst wearing pink fluffy slippers, because she’s paying the bill hence can do just that, and does so without fear of judgement. So putting oodles of effort into reminding people that you can gladly wear Adidas Sambas and a t-shirt in Manchester, was for me a tad patronising simply because we’ve grown a lot.
I sat down with Simon Rogan up in Cartmel back in 2013 to carry out Manchester’s very first interview ahead of The French and Mr Cooper’s House and Garden opening. As part of the chat we mentioned to Mr R that Manchester is generally a wet led city, aka drinking takes priority over eating and we prefer uber-casual and a tad boisterous even at the premium level. He smiled knowingly and said ‘Sure, most cities do’. We returned the smile and said ‘But Manchester’s a very, very wet led city’. We then talked to Simon almost a year later and reminded him of said chat, and the penny seemed to have dropped. It’s an entirely different market to Cartmel and whilst this has now registered, maybe Umbel’s push on Skof's informality went a bit too far, along with the early-life music levels. As a food city, we are far from being Toyko, New York or San Sebastian in truth, but we are now a truly international city and have enough understanding and experience of premium dining to not be overwhelmed places which sell tasting menus and Montrachet. |
| |
 |
 |
But ultimately, none of that pre-launch stuff matters to the end product, which without question sits on Manchester’s admittedly small shelf of genuinely top tier operators, and is undoubtedly a huge positive for our city's hospitality and tourism sectors.
Either way, regardless of what happens next year, Manchester has a new star.
|
Skof Preview
|
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
It’s rare that Manchester is graced with a truly high-profile new restaurant. A couple of years ago we heard whispers of a pending Simon Rogan restaurant opening in the city, which ticked that rarity box. The word was that it was going to be a branch of his Aulis concept; a super intimate Chef’s table type setup for up to 10 people. Other Manchester food media folk tried to pick our brains when this was posted on one of our team’s personal social media, but we didn’t spill a further word.
Fast forward a while, and the scoop was a touch uncalibrated yet still in the right lane. Instead, Rogan’s Umbel Group was to facilitate and fund a restaurant which would be led by one of his most trusted Chefs; Tom Barnes, and the name of that venue would be Skof.
|
| |
 |
 |
|
|
Now sadly, when the press launch happened in late May we were away on hols and hence couldn’t attend. So it was super-appreciated to be invited in during a proper service once the doors had opened. You often don’t get a truly accurate picture of things at press launches, as they are primarily about providing the kitchen with some practice runs ahead of paying customers arriving, along with creating a wave of social media content to boost anticipation.
Accessible, informal, casual; that’s the vibe here. Even the playful name of the restaurant suggests as much. Lots of effort, perhaps an iota too much, went into the pre-launch showcasing to let Manchester know that you don’t need to wear a 3-piece suit to be allowed in or to feel in keeping with the other clientele. The media run up told us that it’s the kind of place that you can pop into for just a few beers, or the full-on high end tasting menu. Of course in truth, the latter is the only reason why you’d really want to visit anyway. Which leads me nicely onto what happened during our visit…
|
| |
 |
 |
|
|
On arrival it’s a smart, tidy, modernly kitted out space, with nods to its former industrial usage which is obviously in keeping with Manchester’s broader history. I wasn’t sure about the location when it was first released, but if you have a good nosey around the NoMa district, as I’ve admittedly not for a while, you’ll see that the area is blooming so my concerns were swiftly allayed. It’s a good-looking place, undeniably, with its open kitchen being the rightful focus.
There’s 2 tasting menus to choose from; a shorter one priced at £125, along with a full length version for £165. Plus there’s a lunch menu for £50 which feels like balanced value. We were treated to the full length menu, and opted for both the regular and also spenny wine flights rather than getting two of the same, to try more wines, which is a trick that for us gives you a better experience, as well as costing less at the same time.
|
| |
 |
 |
|
|
So onto the food. Now I’m not going to take up too much of your time with a huge blurb on the whole menu, as 15 courses might be a bit too much to shoehorn in and we want you to discover these delights for yourselves, but our highlights were;
Snacks have always been a cornerstone of the Umbel Group’s culinary journey, and they are typically the best snacks in the country and Skof’s did not disappoint. If forced to choose only two then it would have to be the splendid croustade of Dexter beef. Rich and meaty, with a perfect snap from the casing, finished with accurate acid balance. The BBQ Lobster, wrapped in aged pork fat, soaked in its own emulsion, presented on a tranche of grilled sourdough was a hearty mouthful.
|
| |
 |
 |
|
|
As to be expected the Orkney Scallop started the savoury section with perfect cooking and finesse but it was the Set Miso Custard with hen of the woods, truffle, and mushroom dashi that really caught our attention. It was an explosion of umami and a showcase of all things fungi. The aromas were huge, with the unmistakable scent of truffle screaming from the bowl. It was a reminder of why the mushroom, in its many guises, is one of my very favourite foodstuffs.
Steamed West Coast Cod took us right back to our last visit to L’Enclume, a comparison which is sadly unavoidable to be fair. Only this variant sported a sauce that was laced with smoked eel, elevating it even further from our memories. A stunning dish and the menu is clearly ramping up in pace ahead of the main course.
|
| |
 |
 |
|
|
Roasted Sladesdown Duck featured as said main. This was perfectly cooked protein of wonderful provenance, with that punchy sauce being served at tableside by Chef Tom himself. This course also came paired with a fabulous stuffed mini loaf which was the best bread course that we’ve eaten on any continent, all year. Fluffy, pillowy, light, served warm, then glazed with honey. A ‘Manchester Bao’, was our takeaway memory of this. Fabulous.
As any tasting menu aficionado is aware; you order coffee largely for the petit fours, but at Skof this isn’t the case. Coffee or not you’re going to end the meal with Barney’s Tiramisu. I’ll let Tom explain the lovely backstory for this untraditional petit fours, but this is a Tiramisu to more than rival Mancheter’s infamous Tiramisu drawer!
|
| |
 |
 |
|
|
Cooking standards across the board, even at this early stage, were impeccable, and the guys have hit the ground running for sure. Yes, there was a touch of early life service-nerves, but that’s to be expected from a brand new team after only a handful of services. It’s a given that this will pass, probably by the time that you read this article in fairness.
Now as touched on at the start of this piece; we don’t get too many genuinely top shelf offerings popping up in Manchester. And as a city, our food media often gets ahead of themselves with the praise of places which are doing a good job. The good is often labelled as great, and the very good as world class. But Skof is different from the usual OTT blurb and very much sits on that top shelf with 2 or perhaps 3 other venues in Gtr Manchester, and seems destined for wider national recognition.
|
| |
 |
 |
|
|
It’s driven and owned by one of the top lieutenants of arguably the best Chef in the UK, whose Umbel Group facilitated Skof’s inception and holds a score of stars in the UK and also abroad. Simon Rogan being that man. His unattended influence at Skof is still clear to see by those with the trained eye, albeit publicly masked to a large degree with the focus rightfully being on Chef Barnes himself.
So, the usual prediction whispers of Michelin Stars will undoubtedly start in a few months, ahead of the award ceremony in early 2025. Usually the speculations are unfounded and shortsighted, but you can be pretty certain that Skof will be on Michelin’s radar already, via a combo of that Rogan link, the 100% independent location, and the genuine quality of the whole package even at this fledgling stage. It’s going to be pretty tough for them to ignore Skof at their awards in 8 months’ time to be honest.
|
| |
 |
 |
|
|
We heard whispers that Michelin were in Cumbria inspecting venues last week, certainly at L’Enclume itself and also at Source/The Gilpin. So you can be pretty sure that they’ve probably also already been to Skof as part of their NW itinery. And so should you, as soon as you can score a reservation that is. We are booked in for dinner as paying customers, but need to wait until September! It’s without question up there with our very best and will only get better from here once the team really start to flex their muscles. We can’t wait to see how things develop over the next 3 months.
** Our experience was gratefully comped **
|
| |
|
3 Federation Street, Manchester, M4 4BF
0161 669 1961
= FANTASTIC 
=
Good 
=
OK 
=
Poor
